GUADELOUPE: Tours / Sightseeing
SEBASTIEN SABATTINI | Mardi 27 Mars 2007
GUADELOUPE: Tours / Sightseeing
GUADELOUPE: Tours / Sightseeing
GUADELOUPE: Tours / Sightseeing : GRANDE-TERRE
Pointe-à-Pitre, the island's main
city is located on the on eastern "butterfly wing" of Grande-Terre
and can be interesting to explore on foot. Among the most popular attractions
are the open-air and
covered marketplaces just a couple of streets from the harbor front. They are
worth a visit not only for their multicolored and many-scented treasures, but
also because of the animated exchanges of the locals. By contrast, jewelry
and French high fashion are available in abundance along the narrow, bustling
streets of the city. On the Rue Peynier behind the St. Antoine Market, is the Musée
Schoelcher, dedicated to Victor Schoelcher, the man credited with
helping abolish slavery. Not far away, on the Rue René-Boisneuf, a plaque
marks No. 54 as the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning poet St. John Perse.
Nearby, the Musée Saint-John Perse is housed in a handsome,
historic, much-photographed building, located on the corner of Rues A.R. Boisneuf
and
Nozières.The modern Centre Saint-John Perse, a beautifully designed
commercial complex on the city's harbor front, has a hotel, boutiques, shops
and restaurants. Easily accessible to cruise passengers, it is conveniently
located for other visitors as well.Place de la Victoire remains
a cool oasis in the bustle of Pointe-à-Pitre. In addition to royal palms,
there are majestic shade trees called sabliers, as well as Gabon tulip trees
and royal
poincianas. Bordering the Place are houses mostly made of wood with attractive
open-air balconies. These buildings, dating from the island's colonial past,
lend a stylish, old world atmosphere to this part of town. Not far from here
is the 19th-century Cathédrale de St. Pierre et St. Paul,
nicknamed the ''Iron Cathedral" because of its skeleton of bolted iron
ribs, designed to keep the church standing through hurricanes and earthquakes.
In the opposite
direction, away from the port, is a new area of startling modern architecture.Grande-Terre
offers an abundance of beautiful beaches and many fascinating
sights. Leaving
Pointe-à-Pitre on the "Riviera" road that leads to many of
the island's tourist hotels, the first area of interest is Bas-du-Fort. It
has a large, handsome marina for boats and yachts and the historic Fort
Fleur d'Epée. Next, just off the main highway, is the Guadeloupe Aquarium,
which ranks as number four in all of France. Gosier, with its convenient central
location, is the major resort area of the island. Continuing east, past popular
Ste. Anne and the resorts of St. François, one comes to the rocky formations
of Pointe des Châteaux, a most surprising landscape
for the Caribbean, resembling Land's End or Finistère in Europe. In
the distance is La Désirade island. Ste. Anne, St.
François and Le Moule include
some of the island's most beautiful beaches.Continuing on around the coast,
the road passes a stately colonial Maison Zevallos and goes through Le Moule,
formerly the capital of Guadeloupe. Here, the handsome Musée
Edgar Clerc,
is a gem both architecturally and historically. Further north is the Porte
d'Enfer (Gate of Hell), a jagged coast with a magnificent view; and finally
La Pointe de la Grande Vigie overlooks a stunning scene of stark white cliffs
rising abruptly from the ocean. Returning to Pointe-a-Pitre, one passes through
the towns of Port Louis, Petit-Canal and Morne-a-l'Eau. The latter is known
for its very large cemetery which resembles a miniature city with black and
white tile and aboveground crypts. On the night of All Saints (November 1),
the amphitheater-shaped cemetery is ablaze with thousands of candles.GUADELOUPE: Tours / Sightseeing : BASSE-TERRE
Guadeloupe's western ''butterfly wing" is Basse-Terre.
After crossing the Pont
de la Gabare bridge over the Rivière Salée, one has
the choice of going either north or south along the coast, or straight into
the National
Park,
an ecological wonderland covering one-fifth of Guadeloupe's total terrain.
Those going directly to the Park will encounter a lush rain forest and enjoy
such sites as the Cascade Ecrévisses, a sparkling waterfall
and pond, the Parc Bras David, for good walking tours of varying
lengths, and the Parc
Zoologique et Botanique, an interesting zoo and botanical garden.
For travelers following the northern route, a first stop could be the Compagnie
Fermière
de Grosse Montagne, a working sugar factory that is itself a work
of art. The refinery was recently revamped, its gigantic machinery repainted
in a rainbow
of vibrant colors, resembling a Guadeloupean version of Paris' Centre Georges
Pompidou. Further west, just before Ste. Rose, is the Musée
du Rhum,
which traces the island's proud history as a rum producer. The museum has
explanatory texts in English. A free dégustation (tasting) is included in
the entrance fee . Turning south along the leeward coast, one finds miles
and miles of beautiful
stretches of sand, topped off by the magnificent Grande Anse Beach.
Underwater enthusiasts will want to stop at Malendure Beach,
for a trip by glass bottom boat to its offshore Pigeon Island and Cousteau
Reserve, one of the best dive
spots in the world.South of here at Vieux-Habitants is one of Guadeloupe's
oldest churches, and still further south one encounters the capital city of
Basse-Terre, its historic fortification dating from 1643. Formerly called Fort
St. Charles, in 1990 it was renamed Fort Delgrès commemorating
Louis Delgrès, whose death in 1802 made him an early hero in the movement
for abolition of slavery. Other sights in the city of Basse-Terre include a
colorful outdoor market and three imposing monuments: the Prefecture, Conseil
Général, and Palais de Justice, all majestic reminders of the
island's colonial past.From Basse-Terre city there are wonderful views of
the impressive dormant volcano, La Soufrière, seven and
a half miles away. Motorcoaches take visitors through the lovely suburb of
Saint Claude almost
to the top of the mountain. You can hike (take a jacket, it can be chilly)
to the very summit (1444 m /4,813 ft) to see the amazing fumaroles and wisps
of sulfur vapor (they can also be seen from the parking area at Savane à Mulets).
Recommended on an excursion to La Soufrière is a visit to the museum
at the lookout point, which describes the arc of volcanoes that formed the
Lesser Antilles.Heading further south, be sure to stop at the Centre de Broderie,
or lace-making center in Vieux-Fort. Hundreds of intricate handmade designs
are on display and for sale. From here, it's on to Trois Rivières and
the lush grounds of the famous Parc des Roches Gravées,
with its rock engravings of animal and human figures by the pre-Columbian
Arawak Indians,
most likely done between 300 and 400 A.D. From Trois Rivières, you can
also catch a ferry to the nearby islands of Les Saintes.At
Bananier, stop to enjoy the view of the offshore islands of Les Saintes. A
detour to the west
brings you to the trails leading to the three magnificent Chutes du
Carbet (the Caribbean's highest waterfalls) and the Grand
Etang (Grand Pond). Returning
to Pointe-à-Pitre via Basse-Terre's eastern coast, you'll drive through
the famous Allée Dumanoir, a dramatic stretch of road lined with century-old
royal palms. Popular stops along this coast are the Hindu Temple at Changy
and Ste. Marie where Columbus landed (a monument commemorates the event). Just
before reaching Grande-Terre, a stop should be made at the lush Domaine
de Valombreuse, a six-acre floral park located just outside Petit-Bourg and featuring
over 100 varieties of tropical plants and flowers.
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